Karaoke: The Traveller’s Icebreaker

Originally published in the Montreal Gazette on October 19, 2013. 

It’s a balmy June day in Spain’s beachy Costa Blanca region. All anyone cares about are the 2010 World Cup matches playing on the big screen at Stallion’s pub, a popular watering hole in a mostly British suburb of Torrevieja called Dream Hills. Today is significant since England is up against the U.S. Being Canadian and married to a Brit, I deem it best not to root for my neighbours to the south.

Thankfully for everyone involved, the game ends in a tie. England didn’t perform particularly well, but at least they’re through to the next round. That’s enough for the British majority of patrons at Stallion’s to turn the party up to 11. The TV is muted and, at the egging on of the pub owners, my husband takes to the teeny stage to host a Karaoke celebration. He puts me up first, and as he does, our Swedish friends Tom and Monica walk in. Upon seeing them, I request a song change. Before it starts, I point to them and say, “This is for you!”

It’s the first time I’ve chosen “Gimme, Gimme, Gimme” by ABBA. Its cool riff and steady disco bops are right for the occasion: everyone’s in the mood to move. After my performance, Tom gives me a big hug and says, “I loved that, it was wonderful!” I chose the ditty as a shout-out to his homeland, but the real compliment to Sweden is that everyone knows ABBA.

That’s the thing about Karaoke. In so many places throughout the world, the songbook will reliably be filled with international, barrier-breaking hits. We may not speak the same language, but we all know “Hey Jude.”

Naturally there’ll be tunes in the language of the country of origin – Karaoke books in Montreal always have a French section – but most of the tome features songs of the moment (Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Justin Bieber) and of the greats (Elvis, the Beatles, Madonna).

When my husband and I travel to a new city, we invariably find a Karaoke joint on the first night. It’s how a couple of strangers like us meet new people.

My husband’s signature song is Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody.” Because the number is usually performed by a group of drunken friends, most Karaoke hosts are pleasantly surprised when they realize my husband can actually sing. His rendition has even earned us a round of drinks in Victoria, BC, at Sopranos Bar & Grill on Caledonia Ave., a boxy, inconspicuous locale in a warehouse district. “Most people ruin that song,” the host told us, handing us some shots on the house. “Thanks for doing the opposite.”

“Bohemian” is a song that people can easily recognize, generally appreciate, and feel compelled to sing along to. It combines these qualities more seamlessly than most songs, so it’s a great conversation-starter. Usually, the conversations starts with, “hey man, that was great!” And from there, we have a friend for the night.

I have a different approach. I like to get people dancing, I have a few ‘80s anthems in my roster. I’m partial to Nena’s “99 Luftballons” (in English), Martha and the Muffins’ “Echo beach,” and because I’m also French Canadian, Marc Drouin et les Échalotes’ “Pied de poule.” If I can, I also like to acknowledge the place I’m in, so when I’m in Cancun, Mexico, expect me to take on “La Bamba.”

I’m not an especially good singer, but after 16 years of classical piano training, I can at least sing on key. A typical reaction to my song choice is, “I haven’t heard that in so long!” More common still is me getting off the stage and on the dance floor.

We’re not in pursuit of praise. My husband and I enjoy listening to everyone else, and we’re just as likely to chat them up.

At Planet Rose, a cramped Karaoke bar in New York’s East Village, we meet Rob, who kills it with U2’s “With or without you.” (Honestly, we’re impressed by anyone who can actually pull off Bono.) It turns out Rob’s a regular, so he introduces us to some of the people he knows. One of them is Andy, who manages to convince me to duet with him to Pat Benetar’s “We belong.”

We never wonder if it’s okay to approach Rob, and Andy took all of 5 minutes to ask me to be his harmony. The constant in Karaoke is that if you can go up there and sing – even if you’re a terrible singer – you’re probably not shy. The courageous act of getting on the stage at all implicitly says “Hello” to the whole audience, which, when you think about it, is how all exchanges begin.

Feeling insecure? Pick a song with plenty of sing-along-ability. I’m reminded of that Ally McBeal episode when tone-deaf Georgia takes the stage at the gang’s favourite piano bar and butchers Dusty Springfield’s “Son of a Preacher Man.” Vonda Shepard steps in, encouraging the audience to sing along to cover up Georgia’s dreadful voice. With Karaoke, it’s a given that not everyone’s a singer. But because all the songs in the book are well-known, and because the words are on the screen, anyone can sing along. In fact, knowing they’ve chosen a popular song might even give the apprehensive singer an ego-boost.

For a rush on a grander scale, head to the Rising Star club at Universal’s CityWalk in Orlando, Florida. Here, Karaoke is taken to the next level of completion. At only a few pages, the songbook is smaller than what we’re used to, but there’s a reason. Once you’re called up, a full band and back-up singers help you deliver the song like a star. And because this is America, the stage crew has memorized each of those tunes in the songbook and performs them to pitch. In fact, should you falter or sing off-key, the back-up singers’ mics get jacked up to make it sound like it’s still all you. There’s less singing along in a polished place like this, but for a little over three minutes, it’s all about you.

Over in Nashville, we find Lonnie’s Western Room, a Karaoke bar in Printer’s Alley, only a couple of blocks from the city’s honky-tonk central. Lonnie’s is everything I hoped a Nashville pub would be: tiny, cluttered, and teeming with people who aren’t necessarily vying for country superstardom. In fact, I hear more metal than bluegrass.

There’s just one problem: they won’t play “Bohemian Rhapsody.” When my husband asks why not, the bartender tells him the owner has a list of “do not play” songs, and that’s one of them. It turns out the list has been laminated. Among others are some Eminem tracks, Coolio’s “Gangster’s paradise” and – this one’s a head-scratcher – Billy Joel’s “Piano man.”

I can’t restrain him; my husband wants to leave. As we walk away, I remind him that there are other songs he could sing. “I know,” he says. “But I can’t support someone who would actually ban songs just because they annoy him.”

He has a point. My personal distaste for Britney Spears is automatically suspended the moment I enter the realm of Karaoke. Besides, if there’s anything that can bring a diverse, if mismatched group of people together, surely it’s a song they’ve all heard.

When my husband and I got married three years ago, our guest list read like a United Nations function. People hailed from both of Canada’s coasts, the U.S., England, France, Spain, Australia and Iraq. Many of them had never met before.

To break the ice, we worked Karaoke into the reception. “Weddingoke,” it was called. We hired a DJ in case we ran out of song requests, but in the end, Weddingoke rendered him redundant.

My husband started things off with “Bohemian Rhapsody.” It was the first time my parents heard him sing. “He’s really good,” my father told me. “You did well.” My mother agreed. “I didn’t know he could sing like that,” she said.

Some parents want their daughters to marry a doctor. Mine, who met in 1975 after joining the same band, were quite happy that I’d found a man who could transition through the song’s many changes like it was nothing at all.

It’s a talent my husband took with him when he backpacked through Australia and Thailand in the early 2000s. And since we started travelling together in the last few years, his “Bohemian” and my “99 Luftballons” have made us friends wherever we go.

“Now I’m the foreigner” moment #3: What’s the rush?

Before coming to Torrevieja, I’d heard about “Spanish Time,” but I didn’t appreciate the full sense of the thing until I had to mail a simple letter. Sure, you could call it inefficiency, but the Spanish like to think of it as patience. I suppose it’s not for me, an American, to decide.

Meantime, here’s a rough translation of some common time measurements.

“Tomorrow” = In a few days.

“In a few days” = More like a week, maybe even a week and a half; let me check with my supervisor tomorrow (see “tomorrow”).

“1 week” = 2 weeks.

“1 month” = It might get lost. Better aim for 1 week (see “1 week”).

“I’ve got a tight deadline” = This isn’t going to get done before siesta, so you might as well siesta and come back.

Bless ’em.

Then again, this view doesn't exactly make me want to get stuff done either.

“Now I’m the foreigner” moment #2: You American? (not that there’s anything wrong with that)

During quiz night at Stallion’s pub in Orihuela, Spain, where, incidentally, there are nothing but Brits.

Quizzer: What was the name of the Lone Ranger’s horse?

The husband unit: The Lone Ranger?

Me: I think it’s a cowboy.

Guy sitting at next table: You should know this. You’re American.

Me: I’m Canadian.

Guy sitting at next table furrows his brow to indicate doubt.

Me: If I were American, I’d admit it.

No Americans were harmed in the making of this blog. But a handful of Canadians were probably a little miffed, and at least one British man was very disappointed.

Trip Clips

It’s hard to believe it’s only been a month and a half since I left my beloved Montreal. And in so little time, everything seems to have changed. I can’t possibly go into every little detail, so I’m going to sum it up into a few little vignettes.

A sunshine kind of state

When we arrived, we were immediately ushered into the lobby. It was crisply decorated with glassworks and softened with plush fabric, the odd twinkle reflecting on shiny surfaces. We ordered drinks and waited, while I struggled to down Francis Ford Coppola’s bitter Chardonnay. After 15 minutes, we were taken to our seats. The leather chairs were wide, each with its own ottoman. We couldn’t help but squeeze the arms and the back. Our waitress arrived, took our dinner orders, and brought us more drinks. Shortly after, my melon mojito and roasted salmon with market greens and cream sauce arrived. Then the theatre dimmed the lights and the movie began. “God bless America,” I said to the husband unit.

Dublin-Ya

On my way to the bathroom, I ran into the drunk girl who’d stolen the microphone from tonight’s musician and given her own rendition of a disco tune he wasn’t playing. She was accompanied by two more drunk girls. To be fair, I was a bit tipsy myself, which could explain why I don’t quite recall why I chatted them up in the first place. Of course, it isn’t difficult: just tell a girl she looks pretty. That gets things started, and usually on the right foot.

Hearing my exotic, otherwordly accent, Drunk Girl #1 asked me where I was from. I told her Canada, which she connected to the United States.

“My aunt’s husband – my u’cle – he’s top…he’s one-atha top cancer doctors in…in…Maine,” she said.

“Really?” I said.

“He’s…uh…he’s 121st,” she went on.

I laughed a bit. “Out of how many?” I asked.

Her face contorted slightly, and then frowned. “I dunno!” she yelled.

“Crap,” I thought, “my sardonic was out loud.”

“I’m not being flippant,” I tried to explain, “I’m really just curious.”

“Oh,” she said calmly.

“She’s not always like this,” Drunk Girl #3 said, “she’s just drunk tonight. Wanna come dancing with us?”

I politely declined. When I returned to the table, the libertarian criminal defense lawyer from Texas was asking the husband unit how on earth it makes sense for the government to pay for his rich-as-Roosevelt mother’s health care. He wasn’t being rhetorical.

Five empirical truths about England (to a Canadian, anyway)

1. Pubs aren’t bars so much as a public service.
2. The Crown Jewels are a show of power and wealth, but not of taste.
3. It’s coming at you from the right.
4. Peas come with everything, and sandwiches are everywhere.
5. If it can’t be resolved over tea, you’re overreacting.

No hablo Inglés

After a slightly awkward but utterly efficient waxing with a Spanish esthetician, who had no patience for my cutesie non-Spanish apologies, I joined the husband unit at a seaside bistro for afternoon beer. Moroccan vendors kept approaching us with their handfuls of knock-off watches and sunglasses. “No” quickly became a function. In between nays, the banter was lazy but strangely productive. After we’d had enough, we took one last walk along the shore. On the sidewalk, more Moroccan vendors were selling handbags. One caught my eye. It had a floral design with black sides and a faux-croc texture. A big “D&G” buckle shone in front. I wasn’t intent on convincing people I owned a D&G bag, but I did like the design. So I got it. The husband unit helped me stuff the contents of my “old” bag into the new purse. On the way to find a taxi, another Moroccan vendor was selling the same purse, but its buckle read “Prada.”

The husband unit shrugged. “That’s exactly what you pay for.”

Worth the wait – A shameless plug

Just before leaving, I was invited to take part in The Art of Waiting, a collective art project with specific parameters that we all have to follow to the letter. The idea is to explore the notion of waiting through photography and text. Each participating artist was sent a letter in the mail with an invitation to take part. Then we had to send our bios to the curator, Jeff Nachtigall, in the mail. Each month, we have to submit at least one text and one photo on the theme of waiting. The texts are posted immediately to the project’s site. Where the photos go, you’ll all have to wait a year to see them, and actually, so will the artists. We can only use film, and we have to wait to develop it in a year. So far, I’ve only submitted one text, but I’ve been taking photos like crazy. Of course, Lomography is going to figure prominently in the work I do. More importantly, what a lovely way to keep art in my life on this special year when things are a little upside down.

Ciao, Nonna

Because many of you who read this are my friends, I assume (perhaps presumptuously) that you already know enough about me to understand the background in what I write about here. And I had a post all ready for you, talking about my recent travels, my travels to come, and the project I’ll be a part of in the next year. I had a lot to tell you.

All that was usurped by my father’s announcement, which wasn’t altogether unexpected: my 90-something-year-old grandmother has passed away. And I want to be fair, here, she was in her 90s. She’s had a long life, full of love and that unique stubborn spirit that seems inherent to Italians. Up to now, she was in control: there was no way she was ending up in a nursing home! And then her body started deciding for her. And then the x-rays came, with lumps and abnormalities and more bad news. And then the only thing doctors could do to provide a peaceful passing was to keep feeding her morphine.

Well, there it is. The circle of life.

Meanwhile, I’m in England feeling a little helpless. There isn’t much that can be done about it. I’m here and I can’t be over there. Then again, I’ve never needed ceremony to go through the rite. In this case, I can grieve without a funeral (at least, that’s what I’m telling myself). Besides, there’s a tiny bit of comfort in knowing that my current travels are fulfilling Nonna’s dreams in their own way.

A bit of history…In the very few trips I made to Sault Saint Marie to visit her, it wasn’t unusual for me to inundate Nonna with questions about my heritage (which was something of a mystery to me until I was 16 years old). Inevitably, I’d learn a lot about her life. She once showed me the oldest photo album she owned, with some pictures dating back to before she was born. Among the pictures of herself and her panoply of sisters was one photo of a young Nonna with her little arms wrapped around a tall, fair-skinned man who wasn’t my grandfather…or Italian!

She told me his name was Donald. He was Irish. He had been her beau before she ever met my grandfather. Donald had promised to marry her. I dare say she looked happier in this photo with Donald than in any of the pictures of her with my grandfather. Maybe it’s because she was. Donald had a job opportunity in Toronto, so he went to see what it was all about. He was supposed to come back, collect Nonna, and start a new life with her in Toronto. But he never returned.

That was Nonna’s short version of the story. I’m sure there was correspondence, an explanation, tears and so forth. I’m sure she and Donald had a rich story as a couple, with nights at the movies, breakfast at Muio’s and inside jokes. But 70 years after the fact, it’s down to a paragraph.

Like many women in their late teens or early 20s at the time, she didn’t want to risk waiting too long to get married. On top of being the norm, it had its economic advantages and it also got you out of your parents’ house. Which isn’t to say Nonna didn’t love my grandfather. There just wasn’t anything silly or youthful about their relationship.

Soon after, when she had children, they became her priority, as it goes for many women. She had hoped, at some point, to leave Sault Saint Marie and expand her world, but with a family to raise, and my grandfather having stakes in the local family business, she would remain in the Sault until she didn’t feel much like travelling anymore. I know she visited Toronto at some point in her life, and maybe more than once. I know she’d been to the United States, since Michigan was a short ride away. I’m just not sure how far she got, or how often.

Just the same, when my then-20-something father announced his plans to tour Europe on a motorcycle some time in the 1970s, she admired him for having the nerve to do it. She didn’t send him off without making her worries good and known, but she understood this was something he needed to do, and something she wished she had done sooner in her life. Maybe not on a motorcycle, but the itinerary was pretty much the same.

Later, when I told her I would be moving to Montreal from New Brunswick, she was excited that I was going to experience living in a big city. I tried to convince her to visit me, but she felt she was too old for such a long trip. In the 12 years I spent in Montreal, she encouraged all my whims. And to the idea of me not getting married at a young age, she would say, “It’s different for you kids now. You can date more. You can wait. I think that’s smart!”

By the time I had to make the decision to leave Montreal, albeit temporarily, to go to Europe for approximately a year, I could only tell Nonna in a letter. She could barely hear me on the phone anymore, so it was the best way to give her the news. Before she could write back, she was hospitalized, and the rest is covered at the beginning of this post. But when I spoke to my father a couple of nights ago, he assured me that she was ecstatic about where my journey had taken me.

I don’t want any of this to come across as me saying that my grandmother didn’t live fully. Many people don’t get to experience every little thing they desire in life. In fact, most people don’t. Travelling was one of those things for Nonna, but it doesn’t mean she wasn’t fulfilled in every other way.

I know this because she so generously shared the details of the missing half of my life. She told me everything, even if it wasn’t always rose-coloured and lovely, because she was at peace with the truth and wanted me to learn it from that place. She understood her children and grandchildren intimately, even if she was often quiet about it. And I know she was a happy woman because she was so easy to please. Indulging her in a simple game of cards was all it took to make her night (“there are no friends in cards,” she once warned me before a game; and she meant it).

I’m sad she’s gone and I regret not being able to say goodbye in a more ideal way. But I’m also relieved she never made it to that nursing home. The only home she ever wanted to be in was her own. I’m glad her life worked out that way.

“Now I’m the foreigner” moment #1: Accents collide

Location: London-Gatwick train station, at a kiosk that sells pasties and such.

Me: Hi, I just bought this bag of ch…crisps, but they’re soggy.
Vendor: Sorry, louve, wha’ di’ you saye theye wur?
Me: Soggy.
Vendor: Sorry?
Me: (*with useless hand motions) Umm…soggy …stale…not crispy…uh…wanna try one and see? (*handing him over the bag; he breaks one)
Vendor: Oooooh…soggie! Right, ‘ere’s anuhthuh packet, louve.

Little lady, are you just gonna stand there or are you gonna jump?

There are many reasons I don’t feel the need to skydive. Most of them are related to some measure of fear: what if the ‘chute doesn’t open; extreme heights; that rickety old plane.

But now, I’m about to face a fear worse than the prospect of skydiving: change.

And not just any old change. Extreme change. Moving-to-a-different-continent change. Thankfully, it’s temporary. I’m coming back, but probably only in a year or so. It’s exciting, because I lived in Germany as a young girl, and going back to Europe is something I’ve always wanted to do. But with this event came the realisation that by “going back to Europe,” what I really meant was, “so long as I get to return to Montreal.”

The thing is, I’ve built a whole life here. Even if I’m never exactly sure what my career path is supposed to be, I love living in Montreal. It’s precisely how I’ve always wanted to live, and how I’ve been living for about 12 years.

This Europe thing was mostly theoretical until the husband unit booked our tickets a couple of days ago. That’s when it all became real. Very real. And that’s when the “little things” caught up to me.

The “little things” are the things I’ll miss. Don’t get me wrong: I’m completely looking forward to visiting Europe. I honestly can’t wait. But Montreal has become my own little couch groove. I’m not already getting nostalgic. It’s more like I’m doubly appreciating what I have here before I go off and get over-stimulated by European travel.

In the past couple of days, I’ve been revisiting these little things, without really knowing that this is what they were beforehand. One of them was eating a delicious vegan meal alone at the bar at Aux Vivres. I used to do it a lot when I found myself freelancing back in 2002. I spent most of that winter going to their old location on St-Dominique, sitting myself at the bar, and ordering their “surprise” soup of the day with some goopy cashew-buttered chapati. Complete with some reading material, it made my midday.

There are a bunch of other little things, like the Farfelu window display, the crunchy dried leaves bunched up on sidewalk edges (autumn rocks in Montreal!), and couples getting extra cozy at the first sign of a winter breeze.

Some people leave a place in a right huff. They’re ready to call it quits and storm off. That’s exactly what I did with Moncton some 12 years ago. But this is different. I’m looking forward to leaving and to coming back. Equally, at that. I’m glad the husband unit and I get to do something like this before “real life” kicks in. It’s a slight change to our regularly scheduled programming, but I just know it’ll be well worth the leap.

What I loved most about Las Vegas

Recently, I was in Las Vegas to cover the opening of a gorgeous hotel on the Strip. It’s funny: if it weren’t for the work-related comps, I would never have been able to afford everything that I did on this trip, yet I’m responsible for telling people with money how to have taste if they come here. And that’s the real reason I got an educamation…

Anyhow, Las Vegas is a surprising place that you can’t possibly expect, even if you read everything about it. You can go into it with all these prejudices, and you’ll be quite right about most of them. But once you’re there, you learn to embrace it because there ain’t no getting out of this libertarian paradise, I tell you what…

So here’s what I loved about Las Vegas, narrowed down to a Top 5.

  1. Everywhere you look, no matter where you are in the city, you’re surrounded by salmon-coloured mountains.
  2. There are lots of fake boobies and bleach blondes in Las Vegas, but they don’t try to act like it’s natural. They know their assets are artificial, and they’re upfront and proud. It makes them look more comfortable in it.
  3. If you’re lucky enough to have a room in one of the towering hotels on the Strip, you’ll get to see Las Vegas all lit up every night. It’s enchanting.
  4. Black, white, rich, poor: every demographic is there, and nobody judges you. In fact, nobody ever really says “no.”
  5. Las Vegas is in the middle of a huge desert, far from any known…anything. No matter which direction you take, it’ll be a worthwhile roadtrip and almost always an adventure.

Honourable mentions: Designer shops (a freakin’ Barney’s at the Venetian–which I hate); Strip Burger; that Burlesque Show girl passing out flyers wearing a hat with a neon pink feather sticking out of it; Jerry the afroed tour guide en route to the Grand Canyon; my hairdresser Dee who said my hairdo, pre-Dee, was “almost cute”; the staunch Republican I met during a press lunch, who, despite being a staunch Republican, made for the most delightful conversation I was to have in Las Vegas.